Roped Climbing: Ice Anchors
By Don Graydon.
A bollard can be among an ice climber?s most useful anchors. By linking together two bollards, one cut for an upward pull and the other for a downward pull, you have a multidirectional anchor. The strength of a bollard is proportional to its size and the hardness of the ice. Made of hard, solid ice, it can be stronger than the rope.
A completed ice bollard is teardrop-shaped when viewed from above and horn-shaped when viewed from the side. All you need for a bollard is an ice ax and good ice, uniform and without cracks or holes. Cut the outline of the bollard with the ax pick. In hard ice, give it a diameter of 12 to 18 inches across the wide end of the teardrop. Cut a trench around the bollard at least 6 inches deep, working outward from the outline with both the pick and the adze.
Undercut the sides and top half of the bollard to form a horn that prevents the rope from popping off over the top. This is the most sensitive part of the construction because you can easily fracture or break the bollard if you?re careless with the ax. The single largest disadvantage to a bollard is the long time it takes to construct one.
The V-thread is a popular anchor because of its simplicity and ease of construction. Devised by Vitaly Abalakov, a premiere Soviet alpinist in the 1930s, the V-thread is nothing more than a tiny V-shaped tunnel bored into the ice, with a cord or webbing threaded through the tunnel and tied to form a sling.
Making a V-thread
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